With its looming skyscrapers, fast-paced commercial center and densely populated core, Hong Kong may be more associated with shopping sprees and street food than hiking and beaches. But beyond the urban landscape lie lush green hills well worth exploring. The proximity of a truly serene escape from the city sprawl may catch you off guard.
The Dragon’s Back is a trail easily done in a day that rewards hikers with stunning sea views, varied terrain and best of all - the option to end the day at the beach. While there are several possible access points, the following lets you complete this hike using only public transportation -- and your own two feet.
Step One: Find the Trail
While the Dragon’s Back trail itself is well-marked, the process of finding it can be its own adventure. You’ll be navigating an unfamiliar corner of the city, climbing through a steep hillside cemetery and venturing straight into the jungle! Here are some directions to guide you:
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Take the MTR to Chai Wan station. It’s the easternmost stop on the Island Line - even if it’s a bit early in the morning for you, you can’t miss it!
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Take Exit A, which leads you into a mall for some quick window shopping. It’s Hong Kong, after all.
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Stay to the right and exit the mall onto the outdoor walkway.
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Follow the walkway until you reach Wan Tsui Road, the road that passes to the left of the large, greenish glass building.
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Walk up Wan Tsui Road with the glass building on your right and a multicolored apartment building on your left until you reach Lin Shing Road (about 200 meters).
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Take a left onto Lin Shing Road and follow it until it ends you’re facing Cape Collinson Catholic Cemetery. At this point, you may feel lost, confused, convinced you are in the wrong place, or a combination of the above. This is normal.
Step Two: Channel Your Inner Climber
As long as you see the Cape Collinson Cemetery sign, you are in the right place. You haven’t quite reached the trailhead, but the hardest part of your hike is about to begin. Enter the cemetery using the main entrance and walk straight ahead. See the seemingly endless sets of stairs in front of you? It’s time to climb them. And don’t worry, once you reach what looks like the top of these stairs, follow the road until you reach a small roundabout... and even more stairs to climb!
Just remember, nobody’s timing you. Feel free to pause and catch your breath as many times as you want while gazing down at the jumble of tombstones, city skyline and lush green mountains that are beginning to emerge in the distance.
Step Three: Be Patient...
You’re probably thinking that the stairs will never end and that “hiking Hong Kong” is something that sounds a lot more fun in theory than in practice. At this point, you’ve left the cemetery and followed the stairs right into the thick jungle. Once you’re convinced you never want to see another concrete stairway in your life, you suddenly find yourself in a clearing with a parking lot. The worst of it is over!
Now, just head right towards the signpost and follow the paved road in the direction of Tai Tam Gap. This stretch of road is not the most interesting part of the hike, but it’s a relaxing reprieve after all the climbing. You may start to spot intricately decorated butterflies - there are over 200 species native to Hong Kong. You can also catch some sneak previews of the spectacular vista wherever there are breaks in the foliage. At various points, the Hong Kong skyscrapers seem to be growing straight out of the jungle.
Step Four: Don’t Forget to Breathe
After following the paved road for some twists and turns, you’ll arrive at the clearly-marked trailhead of Dragon’s Back. Turn left at the sign and try not to groan - yes, there are more stairs. But they are nothing compared to what you’ve already done, and as soon as you scale a few of them, you’ll be rewarded with the famously breathtaking views that had Time magazine hail this as the “Best Urban Hike in Asia” in 2014.
It truly feels as though you’re climbing up and down along a dragon’s ridged back. Every new peak seems to offer a unique perspective, with forested mountains, deep blue bays and Hong Kong’s urban jungle all at your fingertips. The highest point of the trail is at Shek O Peak, just 284 meters above sea level (so much for all those stairs!) which boasts panoramic views of Tai Long Wan, Tai Tam Bay, Stanley and Tung Lung Chau island.
As you make your way along the rugged ridge on a hot sunny day, the clearest and most inviting view will be of the turquoise waters and glittering white sands down at Shek O beach. You’re in luck -- that’s your next stop!
Step Five: Relax and Take a Dip
At the end of the trail, you’ll find yourself at a bus stop on Shek O road. Just stay on your side of the road and take the #9 bus, which arrives at regular intervals, straight down to Shek O beach for some well-deserved relaxation. If you’ve hiked up an appetite, there are some restaurants near the beach. Otherwise, hire a lounge chair and umbrella or just spread out on the sand and marvel that yes, you’re still in Hong Kong.
This hike will take about 2.5-3 hours, depending on your level of fitness. The steps at the beginning can be a challenge (there are around 250 of them) but once you’re done with the steep ascent, it’s a relatively easy trail that allows you to take your time and enjoy the spectacular views. To return to central Hong Kong from Shek O, just take the #9 bus back to Shau Kei Wan MTR.